DRAFT***

This blog report is in progress. I continue to work on it and am writing the next port destinations. I will post them when each destination page is posted. For now, I am posting them out of order. When I have completed the entire trip report, I will re-post them in order. 

    Saturday, August 17, 2025- 6th Cruise Port, 4th Port in Iceland-

                              Arriving- Reykjavik, Iceland.  

    

     For years, Jen and I had talked about and started planning a vacation trip to Iceland. At that point, we hadn't even considered a cruise. We researched Iceland and soon discovered that because of its beautiful remoteness and wild unspoiled landscapes it was a little difficult to put a trip into perspective. The one area that seemed like a good starting point was Reykjavik. We both wanted to go in the winter months for several reasons, two of them being Aurora Borealis, and Iceland Eiders in full winter plumage. Unfortunately we soon learned that the short three to four hours (on clear days) of sunlight that time of year was not motivating. The other option being in June. The days would be longer and the Eiders would still be in breeding plumage. This was ideal, opening up to another of our wish list items: going to a few Eider Farms to see the whole process. Again, unfortunately, the possibility of seeing the northern lights was basically not a possibility. So, we ended up shelving the idea until we decided later what we were going to do. We ended up going to Alaska on a cruise which was something we really wanted to do for years, and also we promised Jen's Dad that we would go.....something he really wanted us to experience since he had been many times. Alaska was second on Jen and my list, Iceland was always on top! 

     When we returned from the Alaska Cruise (cruise report featured before this Iceland trip report) we had already started talking about Iceland (again). Jen found this cruise from searching on line. Even though it was in  mid-August, we should be able to enjoy observing Eiders (which would not be in full breeding plumage), and a possibility of Northern Lights (which was a small possibility). The best part was that this particular cruise visited five different ports in Iceland which was exciting. And one of the ports was Reykjavik. As it turned out....... we never saw the Northern Lights while we were in the Reykjavik area; the sky was very overcast when we pulled into port and remained that way all day into the evening. However, two days later, many in the Reykjavik area did witness the spectacular display judging by the many online images posted. Even though the tour of the Eider Farm that Jen had signed us up for at yesterdays stop in Isafjordur was cancelled, and the no-show of the (possible) Northern Lights gives us a reason to go back, which is something we are already planning!

    The early morning was very overcast, the sky was barely awake before I started seeing a big movement of bird activity. I was on the veranda early, mostly watching through binoculars to start, and eventually (trying) to get a few shots to document the morning. The gray morning was way too murky to take any "non-blurry" images but I gave it a shot anyway. 

     The first bird I photographed was a Puffin returning home from the open sea. In its bill was a fairly large Capelin or Herring. 

       A few more Puffins flew by with bills full of larger fish just like the Puffin above. They were all headed in the same direction towards Reykjavik. In the distance I could make out small black dots scattered across the sea. I first thought that they were all Puffins. As the ship got closer, the Puffins that I imagined turned into Sooty Shearwater

     Slowly, flying Sooty Shearwater started passing by which were probably the same birds sitting on the water that we had passed by minutes ago. 

                     This Sooty flew by a surprised swimming Razorbill. 

      The first Northern Fulmars of the day joined the almost continual movement of Sooty Shearwater. 

                                           Reykjavik in the distance- 

                 The number of Puffins grew and they were now flying in all directions. 

                      Fulmar and Sooty Shearwater continued flying through the area- 

                                The Puffin traffic at this point was non-stop- 

The remaining Fulmar and Sooty Shearwater slowly disappeared..............

               .........and were overtaken by the continual movement of Puffins- 

          

       The first Island, Grotto Island, we passed were coming into view on the starboard side of the ship. Puffins do not nest on Grotto Island, but the island hosts a large colony of nesting Arctic Tern. Ths Island is a favorite for Birdwatchers. 

         We slowly passed by Grotto Island all the while Puffins continually buzzed by the ship. 

      With the continual Puffin traffic flying by in all directions, small rafts of mixed Herring, Great Black-backed and Lesser Black-backed Gulls with Fulmar were sprinkled around the area. 

As we got closer to the outer reaches of Reykjavik, we would be passing by two of the three Puffin nesting Islands: Akurey and Engey. Lundey Island is on the opposite side of the Harbor area where the Ship will dock. 

Approaching Engey Island.   

                                  Engey Island is quite close to the city of Reykjavik-           

                             The well-know orange Lighthouse on Engey Island. 

        The shorelines of Engey hosted many birds swimming along the shore, and standing on the edges.....   Gulls and Eiders.........

              ....... Puffins and Eiders, with Puffins flying in and joining their swimming cousins......

        ......Lesser Black-backed and European Herring Gulls scattered throughout the rocks and grassy areas of the island.........

   

         ...... more Puffins flying in to the Island; some settling on the water, others flying to their burrows at the bottom edges of the grass-

                Puffins, Gulls, Eiders and Black Guillemot all along the shoreline of the Island- 

      Just the number of Puffin burrows (or maybe European Storm-Petrels) are quite abundant along the edges of the Island.

                                Swimming Puffins were quite abundant in tis area. 

                      As well as the number of Lesser Black-backed and Herring Gulls.

      What seemed like a few minutes, the ship passed by Engey Island and was entering the harbor area and the Cruise ship pier; Skarfabakki Pier. 

  

                            The Puffin decoy arrives in Reykjavik right on time at 8:00 am. 

         Today we would be docked in Reykjavik for the entire day. The ship would be leaving the pier at 11:pm tonight. We have a tour arranged for 1:00 pm in the afternoon, so we had the remaining time to enjoy ad explore the ship. The bird activity was minimal (as expected) in the harbor area. Just a few Gulls and Great Cormorant hanging around in the harbor. There was a fairly large group of Eider swimming along the bulkhead on the opposite side of this larger harbor, but they never came close enough for better views.

      But this juvenile Great Cormorant was very interesting to observe as it tussled with its morning prey that it just caught: a small flounder. It took this Cormorant nearly five minutes to swallow this fish. It manipulated it in its bill, rotated it........

       

                       ....... it tossed it around hoping for an easier solution........

                                      ....... nope, let's try something different.......

   

              ......... maybe this time........ no, not working. Try another angle.........

                                    ........ here we go, I've got it this time!!.........

              ........ damn! I thought I had it! The darn fish keeps flopping around. I dropped it!!..........

                                             ....... now I got it! Down the hatch!.........

           Now way..... this Herring Gull will not steal my breakfast after all this work, I'll just dive and hide underwater........

                       .........Finally! Success! That's a lot of work for breakfast!!

        

      After a nice leisurely and relaxing breakfast, we were soon sitting in our usual seats in the World Stage room assembling with our group. There were seventy-five of us who had signed up for a Whale Watch today! At 12:15 pm, our whole group disembarked the ship and walked down the long pier towards the gate ready for our walk to the buses. The buses that were waiting for the various tours were a short walk from the pier (about ten minutes :^) )!!  The walkway headed away from the pier along sidewalks that passed behind a few commercial buildings then and along a street. Its a good thing that we had our usual staff excursion guide leading the way! The buses were located in a small parking lot across the street. Once were all packed into the bus, we left for our short bus ride to the whale watch docks about two kilometers away. 

     Graylag Geese lined the grassy areas along the walkways following the shoreline harbor areas. It was a very similar scene with the resident Canada Geese everywhere here back home in Connecticut, with the main exception being Graylag Geese here in Reykjavik. 

      Fifteen minutes later, the bus pulled up to the main dock area. The short drive was quite interesting. I have mentioned before that Jen and I do not have much interest in visiting cities, we much prefer  areas such as mountainous areas, harbors, lighthouses and natural locations along the shore that hold birds and wildlife. However, Reykjavik was a beautiful city! The streets were pridefully clean and lined with shops and restaurants all showcasing the classic Iceland designs and architecture. If only we had time to explore the area.....something for another time on our next Iceland visit. 

     The harbor area was a busy one. There were small boats and tender craft coming and going and at least three other smaller cruise ships docked and moored in the harbor including the National Geographic cruise/expedition ship. The area was mobbed with people! I was hoping we didn't lose sight of our staff tour guide..... at this point we still had no idea which of the many whale watch vessels we were going on! 

     We checked in to the office and received our tickets for the whale watching boat. We eventually made it to the dock by going through a building with a really cool Whale skeleton suspended from the ceiling. Down the stairs there was a small gift shop area. We would certainly browse around here when we got back in from the trip today.

                  

    
              

     Emerging form the building onto the dock leading to the vessel, we were all shocked and very disappointed to find out that the boat that our Statendam tour group were going on was already packed to near capacity with people. We were booked onto a whale watch with another group from another ship that had boarded earlier, and already positioned along the rails at all the best locations. Most of them were younger and were Marine Biology and Cetology students, possibly from the Nat Geo ship. All I knew was that there were absolutely no places left on deck. Most of the people in our group were directed down into the inside cabin of the boat for undesirable inside seating with a few window views. Disappointment and frustration was certainly the feeling for most everyone in our group. 

     I still can't believe this trip was double-booked and to top that off.........it was not inexpensive! Jen got a good sense that I was trying very hard to conceal that I was fuming inside. I suddenly cooled-off a bit when just as we were about to step up the small set of steps and board the boat, a small group of Iceland Eiders were swimming just a few yards away. My mood changed. I started taking images as fast as my camera would go. Jen told me she would go ahead and board and see if she could find a spot for us on the outside deck. I just stepped aside and let the remaining people in our group board the vessel. I spent a few minutes with the Eiders before they swam around the nearby docked boat. That eye-level close encounter with the Eiders absolutely made my day! I had cooled off and regained my usual smile!!     

         Now the next challenge..... where was Jen and did she succeed in finding us a spot?  I walked up the steep companionway ladder to the upper deck hoping that Jen had secured a little nook on the outer deck. And there she was.....she had succeeded, finding a little open spot on the port side in an opening between two life raft cannisters. Even though it was a small opening and a little tight, it ended up being an ideal spot, perfect for Jen and I! Thank you Jen!! My beautiful wife Jen really loves whales, she gets a huge smile on her face when we see them on these boats. Hopefully today will be successful!

     While we were waiting for the boat to cast-off from the dock, Jen tapped me on the back and pointed over to the starboard side of the boat. She said I think you better head over there to look, and I will stand here holding our spot. I didn't know what she had caught a glimpse of, but she reassured me I would be thrilled when I found out! So I "politely" pushed my way to the railing and there they were......more Eiders really close to the boat. In fact there was a pair of hen Eiders much closer that I didn't even see since I was so focused on the group a little farter out form the ship. 

       When I pulled my camera back to look at the images in the camera viewing screen to make any adjustments if needed, I then noticed the two hens that were very close!.......

             ........ and a bonus, an older Eider duckling swam in to the two hens......

       .......the hens gave me so many camera opportunities with many different poses at such close proximity! My auto wind was having a tough time keeping up to my over-anxious finger on the shutter release button! 

               It was also a great opportunity for studying the stages of the moulting hen Eiders-

    

        Very worn and bleached tertials, secondaries, secondary coverts, primaries and tail of these hens-

 

       The horn sounded and the boat and slowly pulled away from the dock. I thanked the students that opened up the space for me to take pictures of the Eiders. One of them asked me with a little pompous sarcasm under his breath "why was I so interested in those ducks"? I just told him, that some peoples  interests are Whales, others like myself enjoy birds especially waterfowl, and thanked him again. I went back to join Jen who hadn't moved from our spot. She just had a big smile knowing that I was happy and we now had the afternoon ahead of us! Now for the whales and any birds along the way.

As soon as we left the mouth of the harbor, the birds were active and plentiful. Several Gannet flew over the boat. I was honestly surprised that they would be sol close to the harbor-

    

                       Black-legged Kittiwake were next and were following the boat-

      

         The first Alcid soon after leaving the mouth of the harbor. A common Murre flew directly ahead of the boat.

         ......... followed closely by this Atlantic Puffin. The Murre flew to the left, the Puffin to the right. This whale watch tour was starting out great!

                                     Kittiwake were plentiful on this trip.

                      The striking plumage of this first winter Black-legged Kittiwake. 

        About a nautical mile from the harbor, Puffins flying by the boat passed by in a steady flow.

    The first group of  swimming Alcids were this trio of two adult and one fledgling Common Murre- 

          You had to look in several directions as birds scrambled by the boat from every angle. Even in our little starboard side nook, you could look towards the bow and stern...... birds were continually on the move such as these Puffins. 

 

     The Captain of the whale boat announced over the ship's p a system that we would be approaching the area shortly where the whales have been hanging out over the last few days. It was a still a couple of nautical miles to go and for everyone to keep our eyes open because the whales could show up anywhere in this area. There were a few Gannets swimming around and as the boat they kept their eyes on us. 

                                             .......... too close!

                       No Whales yet, but there were plenty of Puffins! 

         And missing so far were the Fulmar. The ones that did show up flew very close  right up to and over the boat.

        A few pods of Harbor Porpoise appeared and started bow-riding on both sides of the boat. This woke everyone up on board......everyone was very excited...... maybe the Whales will follow! I know this is a whale watch boat and people are anxious to see whales. But as usual, Jen and I were the only ones on this tour (that we could see) that were interested in the birds! Even when the Captain gave descriptions of the different birds seen on this trip adding a little Icelandic myth and folklore to the birds history......crickets!! Jen and I found it very interesting! For instance, Icelandic lore suggests that the Fulmar is a symbol of resilience, a harbinger of weather and they are the spirits of missing sailors. I find Fulmars completely fascinating! 

      Fulmars continued to investigate the boat...... some swimming close by (probably) thinking it was a fishing boat and waiting for the tossed overboard handouts! 

       We had finally arrived to the area where the Captain announced that we should start looking for Whales. Nothing yet! 

 In the far distance by the shoreline, a single Humpback broke the surface barely giving away its position. It wasn't a dramatic splash or breach, just a very slight surface break with a small barely discernable splash. This got everyone all riled up! Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get one shot of any of the few splashes.....I was always looking in the wrong location. Added to that we were on the starboard side mid-ship area and the Captain always pointed the boat bow first towards the Whales. Jen and I never saw one! 

      While everyone was scanning the horizon looking for another Whale splash, a medium-sized dark brown bird skimmed the water passing by the boat. It was a dark morph Parasitic Skua. 

      While everyone was searching frantically for the Whales, the first mate had noticed that Jen and I were mainly focused on birds. He approached us and said that he observed that we were really focused on birds. This mate like the mate on the Akureyri whale watch a few days ago was also a birder. He asked me what that bird was; he didn't get a good look at it. I showed him the Jaeger images in the back of my camera viewing screen and he also agreed, he liked the dark morphs too. He mentioned that it was too bad that others on these whale watch tours payed little or no attention to the birds. Puffins get a little response, but that was about it! He had to get back to work helping spot Whales, but he would stop back once and a while to see what we had seen. This is what makes these trips so exciting and worth it! 

     A few Eider in singles and pairs would fly by the boat every now and then, keeping the birding exciting! 

        Flying Puffins had slowed down in this area. But a few now and then would fly by- 

   

                                     Kittiwake were steady-

           The boat circled around the area looking as the Whales were on the move. We started seeing more Puffins again, many were swimming- 

         Gannets also started showing up to join the Puffins, Fulmar and Kittiwake. It looks like they located the schools of bait fish that the Whales were chasing. 

 

         Puffins were more accepting of the boat and stayed quite close to the passing boat. 

 

     I love it when Alcids, Seabirds and Waterfowl "periscope" looking underwater looking for fish-

               This Puffin first thought about diving to escape the approaching boat.......

                                    But decided to take-off instead! 

     While we were idling around searching for any signs of Whales, the Captain did announce over the loud speaker that there were a few Puffins swimming close to the ship......that did raise a little interest on the boat.....but only for a minute! Everyone got bored quickly with the Puffins and went back to looking for a hopeful splash and a glimpse of a Humpback. The mate looked over to us and nodded his head and smiled to point out what he had said earlier about the limited attention that Puffins will generate! Jen and I acknowledged and smiled back! 

     More Fulmar swimming in looking for a handout. 

                                    More Gannets and Puffins- 

       This Fulmar was swimming so close to the boat below us you could see its naricorns (aka nasal-tube nostril structure) dripping expelled salt water after being discharged from its salt glands. 

       After another forty-five minutes searching for the traveling Humpbacks, it was time to head back to port. The length of this whale watch tour was three hours and we we had a half hour to get back to the docks. The last few close views of Puffins as we started to head back. It was a nice memory of more close views of these amazing birds in this location. The whales never appeared again. 

         The route back revealed a few more Parasitic Jaegers/Arctic Skua both flying by at different distances, and swimming. All the Jaegers were dark morph! In fact so far, all the Jaegers I have seen in Iceland to this point have been dark morph with the exception of only one more common light morph.

      Halfway back to he harbor, the area was obviously attractive to family groups of Common Murre....many adults with the proportionate amount of fledglings. 

 

                         The last Puffin of the day passed by the starboard side. 

       I love it when birds shake out the water in their plumage while flying. Its amazing that they never lose their bearings! 

       Mixed in with the Murre groups were a few pairs of Razorbill. All the Razorbill were adults.....I never saw any fledglings. 

 

         

       Back to the harbor area in the estimated time. The city of Reykjavik with its modern buildings come into closer view. 

 

         Although we never had the opportunity to visit the famous "ice block" church, we did get some decent views of it from outside the harbor. The Hallgrimskirkja Church was really amazing and stunning.

                 A very familiar adult Great Black-backed Gull welcomed us back to port.

    The dock was close-by the modern stylized Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre. Another amazing building with stunning architecture. 

                        ...... and the Eiders were back to greet us at the dock- 

       Just as we stepped off the boat, this hen swam up to me as if she was giving me a good close look! I appreciated that!! 

        She was closely followed by her duckling who also gave me a wonderful close-up opportunity for a last few photographs.  

                                    The last look at this beautiful hen Eider. 

     Jen and I really wanted to spend a little time in the gift shop. The Staff Guide that accompanied us told us we could have fifteen minutes to shop for souvenirs sand gifts before we have to get back on he bus. The Gift Shop was absolutely mobbed..... no room to move around. A quick look around we found a few items that we wanted that were close and handy. Unfortunately the check-out line was long, and the cash register had apparently failed. The two young people behind the counter had to add everyone's selected items by hand and then do the exchange rate calculations as well. Jen and I decided we didn't have enough time (or patience) for this so we put the items back! Damn, we really wanted those items! Hopefully this would not be the last gift shop we would see in Iceland?! 

     Back on the bus heading back to the ship...... the Graylag Geese were still in that grass where we had seen them a few hours ago. People walked by, and the Geese payed no attention to them,!   

       The bus dropped us off at the same parking lot where we got on a few hours ago. We decided to take our time getting back to the ship. We knew the way back by remembering the walkways from earlier. We had plenty of time. I looked across the parking lot and noticed a small gift shop tucked in among a few other buildings. Perfect....... exactly what we wanted. The shop was busy but not crowded..... we had plenty of time to wander around and look at everything!

      We looked around and shopped for about a half and hour. In the end, we had fun, and left with a few items. We both picked out an Iceland sweater, and yes, I left with a few touristy mugs, a "lively" Puffin hat and a Puffin journal book. Now I really feel like a tourist!! :^)

  

       On our walk back, we discovered a Hot Dog food truck. Jen had mentioned that one of he food items we have to try is an Iceland hot dog! The hot dogs are made from Lamb......yup, sounds good to me! I think it had been a few years since we had a hot dog, and a Lamb hot dog was perfect.....when in Rome! Although in this case it is more like when in Rome do as the tourists do! Besides we didn't have lunch, so this would be ideal. We ordered the Lamb hot dog with the "Icelandic works" which meant other than the local mustard and onions, we had no idea what else was on it. As the young guy in the food truck put our hot dog together, Jen asked about the hot dogs. We were curious about them, and the young guy told us, nothing special just a hot dog. He actually went on to tell us that he doesn't eat hot dogs himself and they were actually not very good for you! 

     Jen and I looked at each other and had a little laugh. I mentioned to him that maybe it wasn't good for sales if he keeps telling his customers this!  He just shrugged it off and said it didn't matter, the tourists will still buy them! OK then......we thanked him and then sat down on a nearby bench to enjoy our $18.00 Iceland Lamb hot dog! How was it you might ask?? Well, it tasted like a hot dog...... we didn't taste any Lamb, just like a regular hot dog! It was tasty though with that good local mustard. We took a couple bites each and that was enough, we had tried the famous Icelandic Lamb hot dog! Scratch that off our list. 

     Finally back aboard the ship. We had a 7:00 pm reservation for dinner so we went back to our rooms to freshen up and get dressed for dinner. On board the Nieuw Statendam there were several art galleries on different decks. The walls throughout the ship were decorated with art (paintings and sculptures)  practically every where you looked.....in the stairways, elevator lobbies and all along the walls to the restaurants. The ship also rotates the art every few days and adding new art that hasn't been displayed before.  Jen and I really enjoy going to Art Galleries and we visit so many back home and anywhere else we have the opportunity. We decided to go for an art walk around the ship before dinner. This would be fun and exciting. In the elevator lobby on our deck I noticed a series of prints of one of our favorite paintings: Johannes Vermeer's- The Girl With the Pearl Earring! The artist had taken the original image and recreated the image in pixelated distortions in various stages, This intrigued me! It also inspired me to use this concept and theme for a bird sculpture, probably a Great Auk for the subject. At this time months since seeing these inspiring images, I am still working on a design! You never know what you will see and where you will see it to inspire creative art!  

    7:00 pm, dinner. After our inspiring and refreshing art walk, we were once again greeted by the hostess at the Cub Orange Restaurant. This is a very special and exceptional restaurant which is included in our Suite package. The food is always the finest, and the staff is exceptional making the dining experience memorable. As part of the extraordinary service and food preparation, they will cater to any specific dietary restrictions or needs you may have. The food is absolutely delicious! 

         Each night at dinner, one of our very friendly waiters Komang would have one of his Origami animal that he made waiting for Jen on our table. That was such a kind and sweet thing to do! Jen really loved them and brought all of them home with her and are now displayed on a shelf. What a precious memory! 

        And for dinner tonight after a long day (and disappointing Lamb Hot Dog for a late lunch) I started with a nice fresh Garden Salad.........

                                                 Jen had a Caesar Salad...........

                                    For our entrees' we both had the broiled Salmon..........

                           ...... and split a desert, a slice of decadent Chocolate Cake. 

      It was an amazing dinner once again the perfect capper to a long day. On the way back to our suite we stopped by the usual Guitar Bar and enjoyed a cup of coffee. A short time later we were back in our room, feet up and watching a movie. I knew in a few hours, I would be getting up to have a few moments of silence to personally pay tribute and to remember.       This continues..........

The Bird list for today: Iceland Eider (yes), Atlantic Puffin (yes), Common Murre (yes), Great Skua (no), Parasitic Jaeger (yes), Thick-billed Murre (no), Razorbill, Sooty Shearwater, Northern Fulmar, Gannet, Black-legged Kittiwake, Great Black-backed Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull, European Herring Gull, Great Cormorant, Graylag Geese 

 

This blog report is in progress. I continue to work on it and am writing the next port destinations. I will post them when each destination page is posted. For now, I am posting them out of order. When I have completed the entire trip report, I will re-post them in order. 

To go back to the beginning of this in progress trip report, click on "Older Posts" below right