DRAFT****  

           "Puffins, Puffins and more Puffins.....and four interesting Accommodations"!

                     Heimaey and the Westman Island Archipelago, 

            "Puffins, Seabirds, Island Tour and Local Culture"  Boat Tour continues...                                                       

                                                              ACT 2..............  

        The area of the cove at Puffin Rock was structured and shaped like mythical giant had taken a big bite out of the shoreline cliffs. Something about this location was very attractive to the Puffins. The largest concentrations of Puffins (so far) in any of the ports in Iceland were right here. Even being late in the season, the Puffin traffic was non-stop. While the plump little Alcids were flying in and out continually, the surface of the sea was spattered with them like falling autumn leaves on a backwoods pond. In amongst the Puffins, a few more Kittiwake, Fulmar and the first Eiders of this boat tour which were hugging the shore.

          Every short distance traveling along the cliffs, the structure configurations of the walls changed shapes and colors.

        But the numerous Puffins continued, and seemed to be getting used to the approaching boat..........

                                 ........... well, maybe not all of them! 

          It had become difficult figuring out where to look and what to take pictures of.....my head was spinning in many directions like an Owl turning its head. 

         In the shadows of the tall cliff faces......my camera setting was set perfectly......I was constantly changing it due to the bright sun, not so bright sun and darker shadowed areas. This time I luckily got it right! As I have mentioned so many times, I am a picture-taker not a photographer; my art medium is wood and oil paint, not a camera! 

       The boat eventually started to leave Puffin Rock cove and started heading to the outer isolates small islands. The Puffin numbers however, continued...........

                                                     several of them remained closer to the boat-

     

      The boat passed by the first cluster of very interesting small islets that were located in the outer center of the cove. I would imagine it was part of the tour route to show the form and structure of these very small islands and also to access the groups of Puffin that covered a large area of the sea. The boat came very close to the side of one of the islands which startled a small flock of European Oystercatchers that were hidden behind a small outcropping.......surprise!!  Again my camera setting was off so I ended up with a few over-exposed images........

                                           ....... these are a little better! 

        The concentrations of Puffin were really remarkable for late season when expectations were tempered a bit ahead of time by the tour charters. I can only imagine what it would be like here in June or early July! 

        We only encountered two Arctic Terns on this trip and in Heimaey..... and adult and a juvenile- 

         Another interesting observation...... flying Fulmar numbers were slow and sporadic, but the majority of the Fulmar we encountered were concentrated in swimming groups in many locations. 

  This cave (one of many) appeared to be the deepest..... most of the others were shallow by comparison.

                      It was good to see Fulmars again, I started missing them on this tour- 

                 There was a greater range of various plumages of Black Guillemot in this area.

                           One of the more shallow caves along the cliff bottoms. 

                   Next destination, the outer isolated Islands of the Westman Islands. 

        Talk about isolation!! Another one of the Puffin hunting and Seabird egging private "Lodges". This one though is located on the farthest isolated Island in the group. 

        The narrative over the P A System obviously avoided talking about the house being a private hunters Lodge which is totally understandable because of the sensitivity of the subject. Even though that subject is rooted in Icelandic culture, history and life style, I appreciate that history and actually find it interesting and I also understand why they skirted around the subject. 

     But they did offer other interesting facts about these outer Islands, and the subjects being Sheep and Seabird egg collection. On this particular Island, there are many sheep visible on the grassy hillside on the top. Your first thoughts are how the sheep got up there?! The sides of this Island's cliff face are sheer ninety degree steep! In a couple of sections (visible with binoculars), there are many ropes that are hanging down the cliff edges from the top to just above the waterline.  These ropes serve two functions. Most of these Islands have tops covered with lush green grass, perfect for grazing Sheep. 

     In the spring, many farmers load their Sheep into boats and bring them out to these isolated Islands. The younger, stronger men climb to the top of the cliffs using these ropes while others remain in the boat. One by one, the Sheep are tied to the ropes and then hoisted up the cliff faces by the men stationed on top of the Islands. It was also told to us that many of the younger smaller Sheep are carried up the cliff face by the men using these ropes. When all the Sheep are relocated to the top of these Islands, they are now left alone, unmanaged for the spring, summer and fall. The Sheep now spend most of the year putting on weight grazing on this lush nutrient-rich  green grass. What about water? There is always plenty of water on these Islands naturally and due to frequent rain. And....... the Sheep absorb a large percentage of water from the grass that they consume. At the end of season, the farmers return and bring the Sheep back down the cliff and into the boats. Fascinating! 

     The second reason for the ropes...... they are used for collecting seabird eggs, also a long standing Icelandic tradition. The egg collector simply uses the ropes to climb up and down to all the nests that have been selected for egg collection. They also use the ropes to swing from side to side on the cliff face to reach other nests which gives them a wider sweep and coverage. That is just amazing, just think about that! But even more amazing.....is that the egg collectors are taught this craft at an early age. Young boys start at the age of seven! 

        That was another fascinating point of interest on this boat tour! The boat finished its tour of te outer Islands and headed back to the main Island.

                  Black Guillemot were not as plentiful as the Puffins, but they were steady-

                              This cave was lone of the largest, but shallow in depth-
    

    Black Guillemot juveniles were fairly numerous near this cave.....probably a good feeding area- 

    The boat started passing around the most southwest tip of the main Island, which attracted many Fulmar that were perched on the ledges of the cliff face. This area is probably a stronghold for nesting Fulmar-

    Well, the boat passed around the point of the Island and we were met with a sudden gust of wind.....which took care of my favorite Alaska hat which is has probably since washed up on one of these Islands. My spare hat that I brought with me is from our friends carving school that they operate in the UP of Michigan. Probably the first hat of theirs to take a tour of Iceland! 

      Traveling northeast along the shoreline of Heimaey, the next point f interest was this small building at Puffin Lookout. Its a small green building that is located in the perfect spot on top of this cliff. Obviously this is the area with the biggest Puffin population on the Island. The building is accessible from land right along the main road around the Island. 

                                     Don't get too close to the edge!! 

         Puffin numbers here in mid-August at this location were still bordering on overwhelming. We were experiencing greater numbers of Puffins here at this location than at Puffin Rock area even though they were extremely numerous there.  There was steady Puffin traffic flying to and from the tops of the cliffs near the lookout building.

       On the sea below the lookout building, small groups of Puffins in all directions.-

      I love this stretching Puffin posture.......I will be carving this one just like this! 

                                        

     The boat slowly headed northeast along the Island leaving the Puffin concentrations behind us. The numbers of Puffins on this trip (so far) just alone in those two areas was staggering. It was hard to take it all in within a few hours on a moving boat. But it was worth every minute and every nautical mile. 

We had now reached the upper coastline of Heimaey alongside the Golf Couse mentioned as an excursion day trip in Heimaey. 

        That blur on the right side of the picture was one of a small flock of Eurasian Oystercatchers. 

                                    The continual sheer cliff faces of the Island- 

                      This pair of Fulmar were the only birds seen for the last five minutes.                  

        The next to the last point of interest destination that the tour mentioned would be here at Elephant Rock...... a known destination in Iceland travel. 

         The textures of the cliff face rocks had significantly changed.... it actually developed the look and texture of an Elephants skin. 

            And........ Elephant Rock! The shape and look of this section of the cliff really looks like an Elephant's head! This is really cool!! 

        After ten minutes without seeing any Puffins...... a small flurry............

                                    This Puffin captured a really long Sandeel- 
      

                     A few more Black Guillemot  hanging out near Elephant Rock-   

    The last few expired Black-legged Kittiwake. Thankfully this one was the last one we came across. 

         Approaching the most northern corner of Heimaey Island heading northeast. The scenery here was absolutely magnificent! 

         And in the distance......... the famous "Loneliest House in the World" on Ellidaey Island! 

                            Faxasker Island on the left, Ellidaey Island center. 

             Faxasker Island Lighthouse is essentially a skerry, not a conventional Island. A skerry is a form of Island that is mostly submerged underwater at high tide.  

       The "Loneliest House in the World"- This dwelling on Ellidaey Island was built in 1953 as a remote private Puffin hunting and Seabird egging Lodge. It is now the Ellidaey Island Lodge Hotel. The Lodge welcomes guests but has no running water or electricity! They have a small kitchen, bathroom and living space downstairs and a bunkroom upstairs. And in classic Nordic style, they have an outside sauna! 

     The only way to access the Island is by private boat from the harbor. To reach the Lodge, visitors must climb the steep rocky cliffs carrying their own supplies aided by ropes similar to the Sheep Farmers use. This approach is popular with the adventurous souls!  It is obviously very popular and desirable......there are over eleven thousand signatures in the Lodge's guest book! I don't think I could convince Jen to give this a try!! :^)

               One last look at the adult Puffins as we left the area heading back towards the Harbor. 

       The Nieuw Statendam came into view when we passed around the point northeast point of the Island. 

                      Only the second flying Gull of the day.....a Great Black-backed Gull-

        Finally, the last destination stop of the trip, the earlier promised "Symphony" cave! We all had no idea what to expect that morning when they told us about this, but now we all knew! The tide was just perfect for the tour boat to position its bow directly into this large cave. For Jen and I standing on the bow this was incredible to say the least! The bow half of the tour boat was able to go inside this huge cave. Suddenly the meaning of the symphony was revealed....as the imaginary curtain opened, loud classical music started playing over the boat's P A System....... filling this cave with beautiful music. The acoustics in this cave gave the impression of a large symphony hall as the classical music played. Yup, it was amazing and a perfect end to this absolutely astonishing tour! The deep cerulean blue color of the water just added to this rich experience!! 

     Fully satisfied, this incredible three-hour Puffin and scenery excursion had come to an end. As the boat approached the harbor area......there were a few more Pufflings swimming around; more than when we left! 

              And of course a few more Black Guillemot mingled around the docks and boats. 

       Disembarking the tour boat and walking back to the commercial pier to line up for the tender boat to take us back to the ship, I couldn't help myself.....I had to stop to take just a few more Puffling images!

      Standing in line on the pier we were all talking about the great tour we had just experienced, everyone just loved this tour! I still had my camera around my neck while waiting to walk down the dock and board the tender boat. Jen spotted a large dark brown bird flying down the harbor and heading towards the opposite shoreline. It was another Great Skua. A few hurried shots before the bird disappeared behind the Statendam which ended up being the last bird of the day that I photographed. That made a perfect scenario for the Heimaey visit.......first and last birds of this port were Great Skua! 

          I made this Great Skua decoy a few years ago for a Biologist for him to use in his studies with Seabirds. 

     Back on board the Statendam, it was a long day. Jen and I just decided to kick back a little and relax. We ordered room service Coffee and Tea and watched a movie! We had dinner reservations at 6:30 and taking it easy in our suite for a couple hours before dinner would be perfect...... maybe a little nap too! Actually, I was completely satisfied with all the birds we had experienced today and in Iceland....... it was a full palette! I cleaned my camera, put the battery on the charger and put my camera in the camera bag. The Statendam left promptly at 5:00 pm, and we were now headed to the Hebrides of Scotland. We would be at sea all day tomorrow and arrive in Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis on Wednesday morning at 8:00 am. 

     When we arrived at Club Orange Restaurant for dinner, we were greeted at our table by our very friendly waiter Komang. He presented Jen with a paper rose he crafted right before us at the table with just three small sections of green tissue paper and a straw. The result was beautiful and delicate. Such a kind and gifted man! We will certainly miss him when the cruise s over! 

           For dinner tonight, Jen chose Salmon, and I had the Greenland Halibut (aka Turbot).... and it was absolutely delicious! 

   

      If I had one word to describe Iceland it would be AMAZING!! The landscape, the mountains, the scenery, the coast, the ocean, the culture, the people, the wildlife and of course the birds are beyond words. Iceland is a place that everyone should experience at least once in your lives. Even though Jen and my experience was from the deck of a cruise boat, the railings of tour boats and through the windows of a bus, and from our feet on the ground, and a taste or two of local "specialties" it was absolutely magical. Yes, more time was needed to have the full experience assuming that is even possible. The possibilities for birding and birdwatching beyond the staggering numbers of seabirds is worthy of anyone's time to explore and consume it properly. Each Port we went to was unique and special in its own way. But it still had the complete Iceland flavor literally! Just like the Alaskan Cruise we took the year before..... we left profoundly satisfied but wanting more! 

     Heimaey and the Westman Island Archipelago was Jen and my absolute favorite stop in Iceland. The remoteness, the beauty, the culture everything about it had us spellbound by its beauty! This is a place we would love to come back to and spend some time! For now, we will miss these Islands and Iceland as well! 

     Now we are steaming to our next location that we have always wanted to visit: the Hebrides Islands of northern Scotland! This report will continue when we land in Stornoway...........

Bird list of Heimaey and the Westman Island Archipelago: Great Skua (yes and yes), Atlantic Puffin (yes, yes and yes), Atlantic Puffling (yes and yes), Iceland Eider (yes), Parasitic Jaeger (yes), Razorbill(no), Common Murre (no), Thick-billed Murre (no), Black Guillemot, Northern Fulmar, Black-legged Kittiwake, Arctic Tern, Great Black-backed Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull, European Herring Gull, Glaucous Gull (maybe), Leucistic Herring Gull (maybe), Common Mew Gull (no), Black-headed Gull (no), Great Cormorant, Ruddy Turnstone, European Oystercatcher

              This Blog Report continues.....Tuesday, August 19, 2025 At       Sea heading to Stornoway, Isla of Lewis, Outer Hebrides Islands,                    Scotland, Wednesday, August 20, 2025-

 

This blog report is in progress. I continue to work on it and am writing the next port destinations. I will post them when each destination page is posted. For now, I am posting them out of order. When I have completed the entire trip report, I will re-post them in order. 

   To go back to the beginning of this in progress trip report, click on "Older Posts" below right