PART 2CC, Approaching the Aialik Glacier-
The boat was getting closer to the Glacier, but we were still abut a quarter of a mile away. The bird density at this point had diminished to only a few Kittiwake and Glaucous-winged Gulls. Most of the bird activity with the majority being Horned Puffins and lesser numbers of Cormorants, were mostly by the mouth of the bay. Other than the pair of Green-winged Teal, the only other species of Waterfowl I saw were a few White-winged Scoter and Harlequin Ducks. Kittiwake were by far the most numerous in the bay, while the larger Glaucous-winged Gulls were present but only here and there. Considering the boat was passing up the center of the Fjord, I really couldn't see what birds were along the shoreline or in the many coves and inlets. But, what I was able to observe and photograph was exceptional, my binoculars and camera were busy.
I started thinking that my chances of seeing any Murrelets were fading quickly since it had been birdless for the last 10 minutes. But the Aialik Glacier was absolutely breathtaking, and its enormity became more obvious the closer we got to it! Even though it was mixed sun and clouds today and still chilly (especially being outside on the bow of the boat) you could feel the temperature drop significantly the closer you got to the Glacier.
The magnificent Aialik Glacier-
As we got closer to the Glacier, I spotted three really small dark dots on the water still quite a distance from the Glacier. My eyes were still running a bit from the cold breeze on the bow of the boat so I thought I wasn't seeing clearly! I wiped them off, put my glasses back on, and there they were......two small dark dots quite a way out in front of the bow. I still couldn't identify the species, but I had a feeling, we had found Murrelets!! I just started taking pictures when the birds took off and headed away from the boat to the port side........
Three very small dark Alcids!! Marbled Murrelets!! The third Murrelet had dove as the boat approached and then resurfaced just in time to take off with the other two. All three were adults and still holding their rich forest-brown breeding plumage. I was thrilled, I think I may have (quietly) jumped up and down a bit! This was what I had dreamed about...... seeing Marbled Murrelets out in front of a magnificent Glacier. Now for the artist in me, while I was quietly rejoicing, I was immediately inspired!! All I could think about was getting home and carving a few Murrelet decoys and also start a painting of this magnificent bird at this magnificent location. What made this even more special and personal, I was alone on the bow, everyone else was in the cabin. Jen saw everything through the window in the cabin. I turned around and she had a big smile on her face, she was excited, mostly for me!!
I kept taking pictures as fast as my rapid autowind would allow me.
While I was following the Murrelets that flew off to the port side, more Murrelets appeared out in front of the bow and flew off to starboard.
And......more Murrelets! They were coming from all directions!
In a short time, the Murrelet activity diminished, I didn't see any others. Even though I did not see one Kittlitz Murrelet, seeing all these Marbled Murrelets was one of the most exciting and memorable bird experiences of my life; this is right up there at the top. Inspirational!
Captain announced that we were close to the Glacier, and she would be stopping for everyone to enjoy the Glacier and photos. A few days before we were scheduled to leave for this Alaska Cruise, Jen came down with a mild cold. Her cough gradually increased while we were in Alaska so we both decided it would be in her best interest and health if she stayed in the warm cabin and rested so her cold didn't turn into something more serious. When we reached the Glacier, Jen came out from the warm cabin and we enjoyed the Glacier together. I think this is one of those times when you can actually understand the meanings of words such as "breathtaking", "awe-inspiring", "spectacular", and just about any other adjective you can come up with. Standing with Jen looking up to this enormous wall of ice and its magnificent beauty really puts life in perspective! For us, looking up at this great creation, was like we were in church listening to a very profound thought-provoking sermon from a very charismatic Minister! It was really hypnotizing!!
Aialik Glacier-
To put the Glacier's enormous size in perspective, here is a 35 foot passenger tour boat at the bottom of the Glacier. The Captain told us that this Glacier is over four hundred fifty feet tall.
The naturalist on the boat announced that this location is a popular spot for Harbor Seals. This is also shown on the map/chart of the Kenai Fjords. The Seals like to haul out onto the ice flows that are produced by the "calved" ice chunks breaking off the Glacier. There was also a spot to the right of the Glacier on the rocky outcroppings that the Steller's Sea Lions use to haul out as well.
The ice flows also attracted small numbers of Gulls such as this Kittiwake-
And, the first and only Short-billed (Mew) Gull that I saw in this area.
Leaving Aialik Glacier and Fjord Aialik Bay- The Captain stayed by the Glacier for a half hour so we could all enjoy it and the area, and wildlife. While we were motionless at the Glacier, the crew started handing out lunch. This was part of the all-day tour package. They gave us a great lunch! It started out with tortilla chips and salsa, followed up by a huge, piping hot, stuffed chicken burrito, and a cup of hot chocolate! Jen came out on the deck with lunch for us, and we enjoyed it while being in the company of this majestic Glacier. The hot lunch was absolutely delicious and most welcomed after sitting in the cold and chilly air all morning!
Now it was now time to head back....we had a long ride ahead of us. The Captain mentioned that they are seeing a few Humpback Whales in the Gulf near the area that we would be heading. She wanted to make sure she allowed enough time for us to (hopefully) find and enjoy the Whales. We passed by Squab Island which had small amounts of roosting Glaucous-winged Gulls and a few Cormorants.
Pelagic Cormorants
On the way out of the Bay, we slowed down for several groups of loafing Sea Otters. I find them really interesting......most fisherman I talked with, not so much!
Everyone on the boat were drawn to the groups of Otters on the port side judging by the pitch of the boat. This one Otter on the starboard side drifted really close to the boat. He/She didn't seem intimidated or concerned about being so close.......it just casually drifted by. While everyone was on the port side, Jen and I enjoyed this one Otter. I do have to admit, they are adorable!
On the way out of Aialik Bay, I did see three more Marbled Murrelets., however these birds dove to avoid the boat instead of flying. In total, I saw twelve to fourteen Marbled Murrelets. No Kittlitz, but hopefully I will have a few more chances in Prince William Sound and Yakutat and Glacier Bays in the next few days.
Nearing the mouth of Aialik Bay, Horned Puffins were plentiful in the same areas they were on the way in the bay.
Back out into the Gulf of Alaska the seas had calmed since we were at the Glacier. The Captain said she would be going slower to search for the Whales....we could stay out on deck. Since I was really the only one out there, I was thrilled! The view looking back at the Fjord-
There were quite a few Puffins sprinkled throughout the area of the Gulf, mostly Tufted. Any Horned Puffins that were there were soon replaced by Tufted Puffins only.
Within a few minutes of being in the Gulf; a single Humpback Whale! The Captain stayed with the Whale for abut ten minutes giving everyone as good looks as possible. The Whale just sounded and it was gone. Time to head back to Seward!
The Whale obviously had found the schools of bait fish, because Tufted Puffins were all around the Whale and in the immediate area.
While I was photographing the Puffins, I was given a bonus of three small fly-by flocks of Red-necked Phalarope, they continued due south disappearing into the Gulf.
Headed back to Seward, entering Resurrection Bay-
The boat cruised along at 25 knots into the western side of Resurrection Bay. I didn't see too many birds buzzing around just a few Kittiwake and Cormorants. While we were moving along, a nice gent walked up to me, introduced himself, and started a conversation. He mentioned that he was from Australia, his name was Peter, and this was the first time he was in Alaska, and was the first time he had ever taken a wildlife cruise. He mentioned that he was curious about the wildlife in these waters. he wasn't that interested in Whales because Australia has many Whales and he had been on many Whale watches there. His really wanted to see Glaciers. Although he was a little interested in the Puffin's. Sea Lions and Otters, he was more interested in my fascination with birds!
He told me that he had been watching me the entire time on the trip, and he was curious about the amount of photos I took. Peter asked me about my profession and he started to understand my obsession with birds and my non-stop use of my camera. I showed him some of the images on the back of my camera and he was captivated by the enlarging feature showing how you can actually identify a species from a small distant dot on the image.
We had gotten as far as Callisto Head, (west side of Bay) and the boat was really moving along. I knew the Captain had a schedule and she wanted to be back in port on time. Its interesting how coincidences happen all the time. I was mentioning to Peter how often birds will just suddenly appear with no warning and you have to be quick to get the shot! Suddenly about twenty yards in front of the bow, a small Alcid, barely larger than a Dovekie surfaced from an underwater dive. I turned quickly to get the shot, but as I was getting the camera up to my eye, the bird rolled over and dove to avoid being hit by the boat. This happened as quickly as it appeared! It was over in a few seconds. I did manage to get one picture....as the bird dove! The species of the bird was so clear and my first reaction was an excited KITTLITZ!! It was a juvenile Kittlitz Murrelet!! I looked over to Peter and said "See, just like that"! Peter could tell how excited I was. He told me that he was amazed that I was able to even get one shot off so fast. But he was also a little upset because he thought he had blown the opportunity for me! I shook his hand and told him, it doesn't matter if I got the photo, I saw the bird..... and you experienced it with me! That's what made this sighting so special. I told him that when he gets home he could tell everyone he met a crazy Yank artist that got extremely excited about a little black and white seabird!! We both had a big laugh over that one!!
This will certainly rival the Marbled Murrelets by the Glacier event that happened an hour earlier.
(Later) when Jen and I finished our dinner and went back to the Explorer's lounge to have a Gin and Tonic and to relax, I drew a simple field sketch of the juvenile Kittlitz Murrelet I saw clearly and briefly before it dove. I only saw the bird for a few seconds, but it is still clearly visible in my mind. I can see the almost white head plumage, its dark eye with a small ringlet of dark feathers partially surrounding the eye. Its head was high and alert. It's body had a shallow profile sitting very low in the water with only part of its dorsal feathering above water not having any time to fully recover from its previous dive only seconds ago. These dark waterproof feathers were still shedding seawater and glistening from the sun after returning to the surface of the bay. Its wings were held out from its sides and ready to dive. I have the pattern already drawn up to carve one just as I saw it.
We were a few hundred yards from the opening in the breakwaters of Seward Harbor. The Kittiwakes had begun gathering in the area by the harbor. A Common Murre flew by the bow of the boat. I had not expected to see an Auk this close to the harbor.
We had just started heading into the harbor, and I had started wiping off my camera to put it back in my camera bag. I caught a movement on the breakwater on the port side. A large Shorebird was moving around from rock to rock. I grabbed my camera quickly, turned it on and took a half dozen quick shots while the boat passed. I had the wrong setting on the camera and the images came out poorly. I could however recognize the species..... a Wandering Tattler. The first Tattler I had ever seen, and only the third species of Shorebird I had seen in Alaska. The other two were Black Oystercatcher and Red-necked Phalarope. Although they are considered a Shorebird, I like to think of them as Seabirds.! Another spectacular day with many memories!!
Another unbelievable day in Resurrection Bay, Gulf of Alaska and the Fjord Aialik Bay. Besides the great bird and wildlife distribution and sightings, three things are most memorable: Marbled Murrelets at the Glacier, Jen and I quietly reflecting at the Aialik Glacier, and what else- KITTLITZ MURRELET!
The list of Birds and Wildlife today: Tufted Puffin, Horned Puffin, Common Murre, Pigeon Guillemot, MARBLED MURRELET< KITTLITZ MURRELET, Double-crested Cormorant, Pelagic Cormorant, Black-legged Kittiwake, Glaucous-winged Gull, hybrid Seward Gulls, Short-billed Gull, Pacific Loon, Red-necked Phalarope, Green-winged Teal, White-winged Scoter, Harlequin Duck, Bald Eagle,
Harbor Seals, Steller's Sea Lion, Sea Otters
Tonight we leave Seward and head for Prince William Sound and Valdez.
This Continues.........
