**DRAFT**

           Tuesday, August 19, 2025 At Sea heading to Stornoway, Isle of                           Lewis, Outer Hebrides Islands, Scotland 

                         Arriving Wednesday, August 20, 2025-

      Tuesday, August 19th, we were cruising at sea all day until or arrival tomorrow morning in Stornoway, on the Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides. Scotland was another location that I was really anxious to go to. Jen had been there many times before, but this would be my first. We had talked about the Hebrides Islands for a long time, Jen had never been there so it would be a fulfilled wish for both of us. Jen always told me about the beauty of Scotland and how much she had enjoyed it with her parents. 

      I first became excited about Scotland years and years ago being inspired from reading all of Keith Brockie's books (which are my absolute favorite books in my personal book collection). I know that his amazing artwork was created from different locations in Scotland, but it sure did paint a beautiful picture of the area, especially the birds!! If you are not familiar with Keith Brockie's books..... you need to acquire at least a copy of "One Man's Island!! 

   

     The books certainly painted a beautiful visual image of Scotland and Scotland's Seabirds, but the music of Dougie Maclean, fills your heart with the emotion of Scotland! Dougie Maclean is a Scottish folk singer who's amazing voice and wonderful story-telling brings to life the Scottish heritage and folklore. He is Jen and my favorite singer/songwriter and have had the pleasure of seeing him in small concerts when he would visit New England venues in Vermont and Massachusetts. 

     Being at sea for the day, Jen and I decided to just relax and enjoy the ship. I put my camera away for the day and other than a few occasional peeks out the windows or off the deck, I took a day off from seabird watching. It was a good decision, I really didn't see any large numbers of birds, just an occasional Fulmar fly-by, a Gannet here and there, and a couple distant Whale splashes or spouts.  It was a quiet day at sea! 

     Wednesday, August 20, 2025, we would be arriving at 8:00 am in Stornoway, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland.  

      Daybreak was thick with clouds making a dark morning. My usual "anxious and hopeful" crack of dawn morning watch on the deck started really slow. In fact, I wasn't seeing any birds at all...... not even the usual morning Fulmar greeting. For the first hour, not much happened. The only thing that I did see was the fast approaching coastline without the usually visible flapping wings  the dominate the view. Good time for the Puffin decoy's trip photo with the background Lighthouse.

          The first movement of the morning came from the turning blades of these wind turbines- 

       We were getting closer and closer to Stornoway, and still no bird activity.....not even a Fulmar or Gull. But that was OK, it was enjoyable admiring the beauty of the landscape and coastline. 

       Finally...... the first bird of the day came from a single swimming Common Murre! 

         Almost immediately, a pair of Parasitic Jaegers flew into view..... the morning is picking up! 

                And the chosen targets for the morning Jaeger hunt......Kittiwake! 

     While the Jaegers were busy chasing the Kittiwake, the ship passed by a few small groups of swimming Common Murre..... adult male parents and fledglings-     

            First Gull species of the morning..... a first summer European Herring Gull- 

  

          More small groups of swimming Common Murre were scattered across the area- 
      

     A few groups of the Murre were actually close to the passing ship. They appeared to be unconcerned about the gigantic ship.....most likely used to them.        

     The Statendam was nearing the inner harbor area and eventually the cruise ship pier. Farms and scattered dwellings painted the shorelines. The bird sighting did increase, but in  small random occurrences. There were more Gulls trading back and forth across the harbor area. First look at Scottish Sheep. 

     Honestly, I was hoping and (expecting) to see European Eiders in this harbor......but the first waterfowl species were these Graylag Geese! Not disappointing! 

     Graylag Geese were flying back and fourth across the harbor......first Cormorants for the morning. 

     Good selection of Gulls along the shorelines: European Herring, Great Black-backed, Lesser Black-backed and Common(Mew) Gulls.

                            Many Geese flew close to the boat on their morning flights. 

           It was a good opportunity to see their striking plumage much closer- 

                   More Lighthouse images to add to my photo collection- 

The Gull and bird activity picked up as the ship got closer to  the inner harbor and pier. European Herring Gull-

                           First summer European Herring Gull- 

 A wonderful surprise...... a Red-throated Loon in full breeding plumage passed by the bow of the ship. 

             More and more Cormorant were busy flying around the inner harbor- 

                      A darker mantled ssp. adult Lesser Black-backed Gull- 

                                         More Herring Gulls- 

          Every port the Statendam visited, it was greeted with the Harbor's Pilot Boat- 

      Several of these Mussel Dredgers were headed out of the harbor. They are interesting to watch how the harvest the mussel beds with their large vacuums. The mussels are fully processed on these boats. After being vacuumed off the bottom, they are then sorted, washed and bagged on the same boat. Since they are harvesting mussels......the Eiders should be in that exact area! 

      Good views of the village....... a pair of Gray Herons fly towards shore. 

                                            Stornoway-

                            The Puffin decoy arrives in Stornoway, Isle of Lewis-

     Today, Jen and I chose a sightseeing bus tour. I finally got a chance to experience the beautiful Heather Moors of Scotland which Jen has told me about for years. I was also hoping to get a glimpse of Red Grouse but I knew my chances would only be wishful at best. Actually, being a bus tour, I didn't have high expectations for birding..... nothing more than casual encounters at any of the stops the bus would make. 

      The bus trip would take several hours with only two stops on the way: a small abandoned harbor, and the Lewis Point Lighthouse. 

      The heather moors were just as beautiful as I had envisioned them, albeit experiencing them through the windows of a tour bus! 

The tradition of harvesting Peat (decayed Heather) is a traditional labor-intensive practice that I have heard about most of my life. Today would be my first opportunity to experience it. Our tour guide for the day told us all about the long history, traditions and practices surrounding the peat harvest. Peat is harvested in May from designated areas from families often with help from their neighbors that cut and stack the Peat for the summer to dry. The dried Peat is then used as a heat source to burn throughout the winter. Special tools called "Tuskers" are used to cut the Peat into brick-sized pieces. Peat is a sustainable local fuel source! One of the many stacks of Peat throughout the Moors- 

   About a half hour later, the distant Lighthouse came into view. A few occasional birds were visible in the fields, but too far distant to identify them. These Graylag Geese were closer to the road.- 

       Before our stop at the Lighthouse, our tour guide announced that we would make a short pit stop for coffee and a bathroom break near this small nearly-abandoned Harbor. She told us that we had about fifteen minutes for coffee and to walk around if we wanted. The bus backed into a small gravel pull-off next to this small rural coffee shop. There was a path through the grass that she told us lead to the harbor overlook that was a minute long walk. 

      Jen and I took the brief walk down the path and suddenly the Harbor came into view. Holy Cow! Yes, this was a small harbor, but the amazing part was the concrete fortress that helped shape and protect this harbor from the sea was absolutely astounding!! We were standing on top of a small bluff overlooking this Harbor and just in awe of how this harbor was constructed!! Also interesting was that this harbor was a tidal harbor, boats in and out only at the mercy of the tides.....(and I assume) the weather and the sea. We had never seen anything like it, and so glad that we had the opportunity to experience it! Another wonderful memory! 

         And...... there were a few birds moving around, especially Cormorants........

                                 ......... and Common Mew Gulls.

    

          Just across the other side of the small bay where this harbor was located, the rocky point had a gathering of roosting Cormorants-                     

                                   Gannets passed by in a steady precession, 

                       A little bit closer look at the Cormorant roost- 

       A little excitement for just a second......in the distance I spotted these (what I thought were) small Gulls with dark heads. Immediately I thought Little Gulls (which would have been rare)! But not disappointingly, they were immature Common Terns! 

                                                         Gannets continued...........

                                                        First Fulmar of the day....

                                   Pair of breeding plumage Red-throated Loons- 

                                                    Just missed that Fulmar! 

                                         Now where did that Fulmar go?? 

          This Euro Herring Gull was walking the shallows in the low water in the harbor looking for Crabs and Fish. He wasn't successful and flew off.     

                 Fulmar numbers steadily increased...... the Harbor area seemed to attract their curiosity. 

             As I was photographing this Gannet, I noticed a small dark bird in the veiwfinder.....it turned out to be a Razorbill. 

          The last birds that I saw were Cormorants before heading back to the bus. 

        On the bus ride to the Lighthouse, many small flocks of Graylag Geese were feeding in the farmers fields. The Geese were quite plentiful in these fields. 

     The main stop of this bus tour was the Lewis Point Lighthouse. The lighthouse is a tall structure built right on top of the bluffs.....it was a stunning location. The view was spectacular! 

       The bus pulled into a rather large parking area, and our tour guide said that we had thirty minutes here to wander the grounds and admire the view...... but with the absence of any fences along the bluffs.....don't get too close to the edge!! Gannets were the most numerous with small flocks constantly flying by point. 

        From the top of the bluffs the view in all directions was impressive. 

        I think this is a Cormorant diving........I only saw it for a split second- 

                 The sharp, steep bluff faces out in front were a magnet for Fulmar- 

        The magnificent cliffs and bluffs making up the shoreline with coffee table book images- 

                                Black-legged Kittiwake were also present in decent numbers. 

                        A beautiful and striking first summer Kittiwake- 

         I didn't see too many Common Mew Gulls here, but I always enjoy seeing them. 

                     Cormorant and first summer Great Black-backed Gull- 

             Perfect place to observe and enjoy Fulmars.....at eye level in their domain. 

           Gannets were flying really close to the shoreline here....often only yards away as they negotiated the cliff faces- 

        Where I was standing as close to the edge of the bluff as I cared to, there was a short, narrow passageway in the cliff to another cliff top only a few yards away. Fulmars were attracted to the soft grassy top and would gather there. A perfect place to watch and photograph the birds very close and personal.

     This spot was the only location on the entire cruise where the numbers of Gannets were steady.

         The spot on the top of the bluff near the Lighthouse worked out perfectly.....the Fulmars ignored me and went on with their lives..........

          The moment was interrupted by a marauding Raven that was cruising the cliff faces. The Fulmar ignored the large shadowy bird only a few feet away!  

                                             The spectacular view below my feet! 

                                       Close enough for me near the edge........

       This was my best opportunity ever to really enjoy and study Fulmar up close on land even just for the short time we were at this location. 

      Just below, a little motion caught my eye.....Eurasian Oystercatchers were flying between the opening in the cliffs flying from one side to the other-

                                 Gannet Highway continued....

       Another first for me.......never heard a Fulmar calling! A very unusual call.....I would have never identified that sound with a Fulmar! 

                                            Pair bonding!

                                   A few more images.........

       Unfortunately, our short time at the Lewis Point Lighthouse had come to an end. This location is one of the best land-based Seabird watching locations I have ever been to. This is a place you want to spend a day with your scopes and cameras during a storm! Even being late in August, there were plenty of trading birds to enjoy. I could only imagine being here in June during a gale! 

     It took a few minutes to gather everyone up to get board the bus (me being one of them)! We had a fairly long ride back to Stornoway with no other stops planned. The tour ended in the town of Stornoway which is the Isle of Lewis' largest town. For now......just sit back and enjoy the scenery and (hopefully) spotting a few birds.

                                              First good look at Scottish Sheep- 

       All along in the fields, there were occasional small spattering of birds. Most were too far out to identify made even more difficult by the moving bus. I will give my hats off to the bus driver for this tour. The roads were so narrow and uneven, and no where near wide enough for a bus and a passing car. This was made even more "interesting" because there were very few if any pull-offs on the sides of this road. The driver we had negotiated those narrow rural roads like an Indy car driver!! 

       The bus turned left at one point to get onto another road. In this field, and close to the road scattered flocks of Lapwing!! Absolutely, without question, an exciting moment.......a species I was hoping to encounter in Scotland. Even though the looks were quick and through the windows of the bus, I did manage to get a few documenting shots. Lapwings are without a doubt one of the most beautiful Shorebirds. This made my day! 

       Seeing a concentration of Lapwing in those Scottish fields on the outer Hebrides Islands was thrilling beyond words! Jen and I had only seen two vagrant Lapwing in CT and Mass. years ago, and the sightings were only brief. Such a beautiful Plover family species. I don't keep birding "lists" but this is one of those species that will be remembered!

        Here is a Lapwing carving/sculpture I made a few years ago for one of my collectors...... it now lives in Great Britain. 

        

      After what seemed like an hours bus ride, our tour bus arrived in Stornoway at the harbor. Our tour was over, we had a little time to walk around and enjoy the town and the harbor. Designated Holland America shuttle busses were picking up every fifteen minutes in the parking lot by the harbor square. 

                                 Nope..... no tourist posed selfies here today!! 

      Lews (correctly spelled, not Lewis) Castle overlooking Stornoway Harbor. Lews Castle is a Victorian-era Gothic revival mansion built between (1844) and 1851 for Sir James Matheson. Historically, the medieval Stornoway Castle once stood directly in the harbor. It was destroyed in 1654 and its remains now lie buried under Pier no. 1! 

      Jena and I decided to walk around the harbor and the town. It was a beautiful, warm and sunny day, perfect for a nice walk! 

       Of course, we were in Scotland, so that means Wool Sweaters! We found the perfect little shop...... and walked out with a couple of beautiful Scottish-made wool sweaters and scarfs! 

     It was now later in the afternoon and we had a long day. We decided to head back to the shuttle bus area near the harbor. Of course I had to take a little peak in the harbor hopefully finding a few European Eiders! Unfortunately, no Eiders, but I did find a single Gray Seal taking a little snooze enjoying the warm sun!

      The line for the Holland America bus was getting quite long and we were getting a bit anxious. Luckily a single first summer Euro Herring Gull landed a few yards away looking for a few handouts. It was a good opportunity to break up the monotony standing in the line waiting for the bus and take a few good close-up reference images of this handsome Gull.

     After what seemed like a long wait for the bus, our bus finally pulled up and we all packed in like sardines in a can. I think by now, everyone on our tour was anxious to get back onboard the ship. It was a very interesting day...... more laid-back and relaxing which is exactly what were looking for. 

     The Nieuw Statendam leaves port at 11:00 pm tonight headed for the Inner Hebrides and will arrive in Portee, Isle of Skye, at 7:00 am. We will have another long day tomorrow, practically repeating this bus tour we had today, in Skye tomorrow. This report continues.......

Bird List, Isle of Lewis: Puffin (no), Great Skua (no), European Eider (no), Lapwing (yes**), Parasitic Jaeger (yes), Thick-billed Murre (no), Common Murre (yes), Razorbill (yes), Red-throated Loon, Graylag Geese, Great Cormorant, Great Black-backed Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull, European Herring Gull, Black-headed Gull (no), Common Mew Gull, Common Tern, Gannet, Fulmar, Black-legged Kittiwake, Raven, Gray Heron, Eurasian Oystercatcher

     Continuing...... Thursday, August 21, 2025- Portee, Isle of Skye, 

                        Inner Hebrides Islands, Scotland 

             This blog report is in progress. I continue to work on it and am writing the next port destinations. I will post them when each destination page is posted. For now, I am posting them out of order. When I have completed the entire trip report, I will re-post them in order. 

   To go back to the beginning of this in progress trip report, click on "Older Posts" below right