New England Coastal BIrds

New England Coastal BIrds

Tuesday, October 15, 2024

 

                          ALASKA!!  August 29, 2024 through September 11, 2024-

   Jen and I were planning this trip since just before the pandemic. The pandemic and other reasons put the trip on hold for a few years. Finally we had the time in our schedules to go on this once in a lifetime vacation. We have always wanted to go and see and experience Alaska, and as it turned out, it exceeded our expectations. Alaska was amazing.....from every aspect! The "wildness and beauty of Alaska" cannot be described with enough passionate details..... its a place you have to experience instead of reading or hearing about. 

             Part 1, Arriving in Anchorage, Alaska, and first port Seward, Alaska-

   Since my blog is a birding blog, however, this cruise was really a vacation for my wife and I, I will keep my focus on the birding and wildlife aspect of the cruise. If you are interested in birding on the cruise, like I was, this will be the cruise for you! You will have great birding off the sun deck of the bow, your room veranda, or any deck on the ship. If you are looking to get closer to the birds for photography, each port offers all kinds of tours. I chose the wildlife tours which offered awesome photo opportunities. If you are just looking for scenery and whales, there are tours for that too.

   Obviously the main reason for the cruise for me was to spend quality time with my wonderful wife Jen. But for birding aspect, my main purpose was to experience Pacific seabirds, aka Alcids! Ideally, the best opportunity for them would have been a month or so earlier. Because of our crazy schedules this year, this was the only time we had for our Alaskan adventure on a Viking cruise. This was the last scheduled Viking Alaskan cruise for this year. With this later date, most of the seabirds would have migrated out of the areas, but I knew there was still a good chance to experience lower numbers of them. And as it turned out, I saw all the birds I wanted to see and there was something going on at all times. 

   Jen and I chose Viking Cruises for several reasons. The Viking Orion was a smaller boat than most of the other cruise lines. The Viking Orion had the capacity for just over 800 people, and also catered to adults without all the nightlife frills. Essentially, it was for a more relaxed crowd that wanted to enjoy the unspoiled wildness and wilderness of Alaska in peace without onboard distractions in a very relaxed pace. Viking tours are more expensive than other cruise lines, but the relaxed luxury, easy pace and professionalism of the staff and crew is worth every dollar. Our cruise started in Seward on Sept. 01 and ended in Vancouver on Sept.11. 

                                     

Jen and I flew into Anchorage, Alaska on Thursday, August 29. We left Hartford, Ct and flew to Chicago for our connecting flight to Anchorage. 






 From Anchorage airport, we had a short shuttle ride to the Anchorage Lakeside Hotel. The hotel is on a big lake that is known for its seaplane activity. The seaplanes were constantly landing and taking off which was real interesting to watch. Our flight arrived late in the day so we really didn't have much time for sightseeing or birding. We had just enough time for a late supper and then a good night sleep after a very, very long day of traveling. We would have to be up real early in the morning to take the shuttle to the train station and then take the train to Seward.

             Obviously in Alaska........Halibut prepared all ways! Since Halibut is one of my favorite fish to eat, I'm in!! I never had Halibut and Chips!! Yup, as expected.....delicious!! 




Fortunately near the outdoor patio by the lake, a small raft of Lesser Scaup was resting the last hours of the day away in a quiet cove away from the seaplane traffic.

The next morning, Friday, August 30, we were up very early and were at the train station at 5:30 am. Jen and I decided it would be nice to take a nice relaxing scenic train ride from Anchorage to Seward. The train ride was 5 hours, about three hours more than the ride if we had rented a car. The train traveled along the coast in the mountains along the historic Alaska Railroad line. We took the glass-top train which as it turned out was a fabulous decision! 
  
                                          

 


The scenery form the train was breathtaking......ice fields, glaciers, beautiful mountain passes, landlocked glacial lakes, glacial rivers, etc. The train followed the coast and then diverted through the mountain passes, Amazing picturesque scenery!






The train passed by several breathtaking ice fields and glaciers. Photography was difficult in many cases depending on what side of the train the point of interest was being seen. I wasn't able to take too many photographs, but believe me, the train ride was worth it!

We crossed over many rivers that were full of visible migrating Red Salmon. In one instance someone spotted a Grizzly Bear, but, oh well, on the other side of the train!  

Most of the birds that we saw along the way were Ravens, Crows and a few Eagles. I did see quite a few Songbirds in the brush at the base of the trees, but I only had quick views of them, so I couldn't identify any. There were quite a few rivers along the ride, most were carved through the rocky terrain. Several rivers however developed large marshes at their mouths on the edges of the larger lakes and ponds. I did see small bunches of waterfowl, (mostly Pintail, Green-winged Teal and Gadwall). But the exciting moments for me came with the pairs and small groups of  Trumpeter Swans in these mountainous lakes and ponds. I have never seen them in the wild before!

Five hours later after leaving Anchorage, the train arrives in Seward. Just as the train approached the train station, we passed by a large swampy/marsh area where the river formed the head of Seward Harbor. The trees were just packed with Bald Eagles in all ages as well as on the sand bars where they were keeping company with large gatherings of Gulls! I only had a quick look as we passed by, I could see mostly Glaucous-winged Gulls (which are expected here)......never had the chance to take pictures. It was a birding hotspot that Jen and I wanted to go back and explore a bit. But as it turned out we couldn't find a birding guide to take us.  

The first birds to greet us at the railroad station were Black-billed Magpies! Again, a new bird for me, one that I have never seen. Jen has seen them before as she had traveled to the west coast many times on business. They were flying all around the train station. Just as expected, they are a beautiful bird with its glimmering iridescence contrasting to its black and white plumage. I am glad that I saw them in the Seward area, because I never saw them again on the cruise. 










The Hotel was just a short walk from the train station. We checked into the Harbor 360 Hotel on Seward harbor. The Hotel is located right on the harbor. Great location, and what a view of the harbor from our deck!  

Yeah, I had to do the cheesy photo op standing in front of the giant Puffin mural on the Hotel. Since I am a bird carver/artist, and Alcids are my favorite family of birds (and I carve many of them) I just had to do it for all of my Facebook friends. 



The view of the harbor from our motel room deck- 







There were plenty of Gulls, mostly Glaucous-winged Gulls and Black-legged Kittiwake to photograph right from the deck of our room! What I found really beautiful and interesting was the color of the water in the harbor. It was a deep shade of a milky, yet bright bluish gray. As an artist, I thought and compared it to cleaning your brushes that you have been painting white and cobalt blue with in clear water. The result is exactly the same. This milky color obviously comes from it being Glacial water. Jen did a little research and found out that the milky blue color comes from "glacial flour"..... the component of glacier sediment that is much finer than sand. It has the consistency similar to flour. 

  

Besides the spectacular view of the harbor from our deck, was the views of the distant glaciers across the Bay......it was stunning!! 


After we checked in, we had lunch at Ray's Waterfront Seafood Restaurant. What do you think we ordered.....Halibut Chowder and a Halibut Burger!! Yup, delicious!!




After lunch, we had a few hours left to do a little exploring in Seward. Unfortunately, the light rain had turned into a steady rain on the verge of pouring. We had planned to go to the Alaska Sealife Center the next morning maybe it would be better to go now due to the rain. I have been dreaming about going here for years..... and finally, we were only a mile away! I think Jen could tell I was really excited, even though I was trying to hide it!! 

Since I am really "old school" and technically challenged as far as iPhones and other computer technology, I was looking for a phone number for a cab on my phone. While I was fumbling though my failed google searches, Jen had already contacted Uber! I told Jen I am still looking for the cab's phone number and she informed me Uber would be there in 4 minutes!! Yeah, I know!! The driver arrived and within 5 minutes we were standing at the front door of the Alaska Sealife Center...... my dream had come true!! 

What an amazing place!!  The seabird exhibit is outstanding...... all these Pacific Auks just feet away and very cooperative!! If you want to observe, study, admire and photograph these birds, this is the place for you!  Horned and Tufted Puffins, Pigeon Guillemot, Common Murre and Rhinoceros Auklets, even King, Spectacled and Steller's Eiders just feet away from you. In fact, the birds often swim right below your camera just a few inches below you! Just Incredible!! 







                                                                Common Murre-




   
                                                                                                   
     Pigeon Guillemot- 





Horned Puffin-






                                                        The Magnificent Tufted Puffin- 





                       I was intrigued by this juvenile Tufted Puffin, I want to carve this bird!-







   A species I didn't know much about until I saw my first one here; Rhinoceros Auklet....now I am fascinated with them! 








   Another species that is a first for me, and one I will probably never see in the wild.....Red-legged Kittiwake. A dainty, short-legged Gull- 







                       In their summer attire.....drake King, Spectacled and Steller's Eiders- 





   Another "bonus" to this already great seabird exhibit, is the underwater viewing area downstairs below the exhibit. Here you can watch the Auks dive and "fly" underwater while feeding. Jen and I just caught it perfectly at the end of the day. We just arrived downstairs when the first fish were tossed into the tank. Perfect!!





   Just across the hall behind the seabird underwater exhibit is the underwater exhibit for the enormous Steller's Sea Lions! 







     My Birding Cruise report will continue shortly with Puffins, various Auklets and Murrelets, Shearwaters, Resurrection Bay, Kenai Fjords, Prince William Sound, Glacier Bay, Juneau, Sitka, Ketchikan and more. Keep checking back..... I will be adding the continuing reports every few days........